The White City

Rothschild Boulevard by ninasaurusrex, on Flickr

Tel Aviv’s White City is named for its large number of Bauhaus or International style buildings. Brought to the city by Jews from Germany and Austria, this unique style of architecture led to the construction of hundreds of beautiful light-buildings lining tree lined streets and boulevards, a recreation of the cities of the countries from which they originated. Named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2003, the White City, and in particular the streets of Rothschild Boulevard, Sheinkin Street, and Bialik Street are places for you to take a quiet stroll whilst in the city, and maybe step into one of the many cafes and restaurants that can be found across this area of Tel Aviv.

Neve Tzedek

Neve Tzedek by Alex Jilitsky, on Flickr

Neve Tzedek literally translates as Oasis of Justice, a beautifully restored neighborhood in south Tel Aviv featuring narrow lanes lined with pretty little buildings. Visiting Neve Tzedek, you’ll suddenly feel that the hustle and bustle of the city slows down, and as you walk down Shabazi Street, the main street in the area, with its great cafes and restaurants, and numerous galleries and boutiques, you could be forgiven for thinking you are in a quaint town in the south of France. You are not, however! The beach is just a few minutes west, the White City to the north, Florentin to the east, and ancient Jaffa, to the south.

Jaffa

Ancient Jaffa by Vexela, on Flickr

The ancient port of Jaffa is one of the oldest in the world and the walled city of Jaffa is what modern Tel Aviv grew out of. Massively restored, the walled city features many galleries and its pretty alleyways and lanes are fascinating to walk through. The port of Jaffa has also been restored, whilst the Jaffa Flea Market is a hub of activity with vendors selling fascinating artefacts from across the world. When you tour Jaffa, you’ll realize just how diverse Tel Aviv is, in historical, cultural, and social terms.

Tel Aviv Port

Tel Aviv Port is located in the north of the city. The original port of modern Tel Aviv, it is now not used for commercial shipping, and has been converted into a massive compound of leisure. Its unique wooden boardwalk is lined with cafes, bars, restaurants, clothing stores, and ice cream parlors, all of which are set within the converted hangers that date back from the time this was a commercial port. There are also amazing nightclubs at Tel Aviv Port and other hangers are used for concerts and other events. Many people take a segway tour of Tel Aviv starting from the port and working down along the coast, or across into the Yarkon Park, Tel Aviv’s green lung.

Florentin

Perhaps the most ‘off-beat’ destination featured in this list, Florentin is fast-becoming one of the most fashionable areas of Tel Aviv. Visiting Florentin, you will see how this area which is likened by many to SoHo in New York, is undergoing change – with old industrial buildings creating loft apartments, and traditional wholesale stores being replaced by young designers and clothing boutiques. Florentin is one of the most dynamic and fun parts of Tel Aviv, and it is renowned internationally for its nightlife.

Tel Aviv Beach

Whilst not a neighborhood of Tel Aviv, we felt we couldn’t ignore the Tel Aviv Beaches from this list. Stretching the length of the city, you will never visit Tel Aviv and not at least see the beautiful golden sands and glistening blue Mediterranean Sea, and no matter what the time of year, Tel Aviv’s Beaches are a hive of activity, whether it be with swimmers. sunbathers, or surfers.

Florentin's narrow streets by Flickr user Tmanto

Florentin’s lifestyle is very different to much of the Tel Aviv seen by tourists, and is still, to a certain extent an industrial zone and garment district where traders buy and sell clothing, artisans build bespoke furniture, and businesses from across Israel venture to purchase unique stocks. The Levinsky market is lined with tiny stores selling specialist Turkish, Greek and Romanian products as well as kosher meats, cheeses, spices and dried fruits. Foreign workers from Asia and Africa congregate every morning on Rehov Chelnov hoping to be picked up for a day’s construction work. Florentin is the technical margin between Tel Aviv and Jaffa, nobody knows quite where, but it is around Rehov Salome. And it is that fact that provides a little more explanation of the contrast this neighborhood shows – Arabs and Jews, modern and old, its a neighborhood which is a little unsure of who it is, but is amazing at being what it is.

At night, Florentin comes to life transforming from a place of hard work to gritty leisure. Tiny bars sell cheap alcohol and crowds overflow onto the sidewalks for pizza and falafel. Its become one of the most popular spots in Tel Aviv’s vibrant nightlife scene, totally contrasting, as it does in so many other ways, with the offering in the north of the city.

Florentin’s colorful character comes from a mixture of poverty and wealth, hard work and fun, transience and permanence, all of which are bound up and explained by its history. The neighborhood’s roots can be found in Salonika, Greece, almost thirty years before the State of Israel was established.

Slowly, the neglected buildings fell into ruin and Florentin became the home for many of the country’s poorest citizens, as well as many illegal foreign workers. The city first tried to gentrify the Florentin in the 1980′s at a similar time to the White City and Neve Tzedek, but the success here was very limited and by the 1990s, much of the area was semi-derelict and rubbish laden. A revival occurred, however, in the late 1990′s in the area in large part due to  the availability of cheap living space in large loft-style buildings, a possibility that was way out of reach to many in other parts of the city. As in many global cases of gentrification including that of much of the north of the city, this attracted a community of artists and designers who created trendy live-work spaces out of dingy, derelict buildings.

Since then, Florentin has changed irrecognizably. Bars, restaurants, and smart shops have opened in the neighborhoods streets, whilst nightclubs and live music venues have opened in the abandoned warehouses and basements found acrosss the area. This has transformed Florentin into one of Tel Aviv’s most popular spots for the artsy crowd, and increasingly, for the mainstream.

The Old Port of Jaffa. Credit Samy D.

With a bit of local knowledge,  the Old Port of Jaffa and surrounding North Ajami offer something starky different to the modern towers which make Tel Aviv the vibrant city that it is. Thanks to Samy D., an ex-Jaffalocal, we are able to present below some of the sites, sounds, and people that make this special part of Jaffa what it is. This article is more than just a tourist guide, it is a glimpse into the life and world of a local, picking on a  few features of life here which make this place special and unique:

The 'window' by Samy D.

Fried Calamari at Misedet Hadayagim (“The Fishermen’s Restaurant”). Located on a prime location, at the very end of the Jaffa port. Except for a quick visit to the bathroom, it never crossed my mind to sit inside the restaurant and not outside on the water front. It also never crossed my mind to order anything other than a huge pile of fried Calamari and a pint of beer. Fresh calamari, full of frying oil that tastes like heaven.

Cookies in the window… On the end of Hatzedef Street (one of the most beautiful streets) there is a house with a little window facing the street. From the little window you can smell from a distance the home baking of sweet and salty cookies. I must admit I had never actually bought some, I bake my own at home or buying at Margoza (read about in the next section of town), but it makes a lovely and romantic stop when touring Jaffa.

Dont worry, you can sit and eat your hummus. Via Samy D.

Abu Hassan Humus. Personally, I am not a huge humus fan, but I know people who speak about their favorite humus with a loving gaze in their eyes and with an almost religious conviction that their favorite humus joint is the best in town. Abu Hassan in Hadolfin St. is one of the best known humus restaurants in Tel Aviv. I used to go by there on my way to work. 8:30 AM – I am just starting my day and people already standing in line for their morning Humus with boiled egg. To be honest – way too much for me.

Dvir Gallery. Every few months, in Hangar no. 2 in the old Jaffa port, there is an interesting art exhibition at Dvir Gallery (a branch of Dvir Gallery from Tel Aviv). These days there is a simple and fascinating exhibition titled Lichtkeile by Miroslaw Balka. Twirled Perspex slabs hanging from the ceiling and making magic with the sun light. So simple yet so hypnotizing.

This article is part of a series of articles by Samy D. about the Jaffa the tourist doesn’t see but which some lucky people get to experience on a daily basis. You can find the original post here or see the amazing ceramics work done by Samy D. in the neighborhood of Neve Tzedek.

Nightfishing at Tel Aviv Port by Or Hiltch, on Flickr

The Tel Aviv Port was founded in 1936 by Otzar Mif’alei Yam, literally, Treasure of Sea Works, as the first new Port in Israel. The port was constructed against the background of tense relations which Jaffa, then the main port in the land, had established a reputation for. The port grew into the biggest in the land and was very important in the establishment of the State of Israel and subsequent mass-migrations from around the world. This flourishing situation didn’t continue, however, and as containerized shipping became the standard way of transporting goods, bigger ports were built elsewhere, and the Port became derelict.

Tel Aviv Port by david55king, on Flickr

In the 1990′s and 2000′s, the original developers Otzar Mifalei Yam set about regenerating the area into  one of leisure, with the big old hangers converted into restaurants, shops, and nightclubs.

Biking at Tel Aviv Port by Flavio@Flickr, on Flickr

Today, the Tel Aviv Port is an area of culture, entertainment and leisure activities. A huge wooden deck covers 14,000 sq.m. and acts as a huge promenade running along the seafront. Shaped like waves in the sea, this unique promenade becomes crowded, along with the rest of the port on weekends with families venturing out for great food, and  in the evenings, with the numerous bars and clubs which have sprung up bringing in people.

Art installation at Tel Aviv Port. By RonAlmog, on Flickr

Shops at Namal Tel Aviv include popular Israeli fashion brands such as Castro and Replay, surf and sports shops such as Blue Bird, Oasics, and Adidas, and smaller boutiques.

Restaurants at Tel Aviv Port also range from full service cuisine through to cafes and coffee bars. And at any hour of the day, you can be certain that you won’t be the only one there.

Nightlife at Namal Tel Aviv is vibrant and The Port one of Tel Aviv’s busiest nighttime locations.

HaTachana was originally built in 1892 as the terminus for the Jaffa-Jerusalem railway. When the railway closed, the site fell into decay and was an unused piece of prime real estate. The transformation into what has become one of the city’s hottest spots has not ignored this heritage and the complex includes a jumble of refurbished rail cars, freight terminals and train tracks to nowhere. There’s even a disused cement factory, circa 1905, that has been repurposed as retail space.

One of the most interesting boutiques within HaTachana is the unique souvenir emporium, Made in TLV. The products for sale here are 180 degrees away from your typical tourist souvenirs. There are fantastic razor-thin aluminum wall clocks designed by Ofek Wertman with color facsimiles of the city’s street art, snazzy belts imprinted with images of Tel Aviv by night taken by the Israeli photojournalist Ziv Koren ($65), stylish T-shirts and enough curated curios to keep you happily in extended browse mode. In fact, Made in TLV is perhaps more than a souvenir shop, it represents a city where everything is done creatively and differently!

HaTachana - The Old Railway Station

Every Thursday from 7 p.m. to midnight is Unique night, when Israeli designers, artists and concept creators converge for a roofless trade show that’s open to the public. Live music and D.J.’s accompany the exhibitions. But HaTachana has a short night, Thursday night, as the Orbanic (urban organic) market on Friday morning (Friday and Saturday are the Israeli weekend) offers another unique twist to the diverse use of this public space. As the NY Times, put it HaTachana is “like being on the fast track to Tel Aviv’s new-school cool.”

HaTachana is open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Bialik Square and the Old Town Hall of Tel Aviv

The White City is located between Allenby Street in the south, Begin Road and Ibn Gvirol Street in the east, the Yarkon River in the north, and the Mediterranean in the west. It has been called the White City for the simple reason that most buildings in the area are… you guessed it, white!

In the 1920′s and 30′s a large number of Jewish architects, who had studied in Europe, moved to Tel Aviv. Wanting to recreate the cafe culture of Europe in the hot climate of Israel, whilst integrating the modernist architectural style they had practised, the group created a new architectural language, which is rich and diverse, characterized by its asymmetry, functionality and simplicity. The balconies, building pillars, flat roofs and “thermometer” windows have since become trademarks of Tel Aviv.

Rothschild Boulevard at night celebrating Tel Aviv's 100th Birthday by Flickr user noam_fein

The White City has been largely restored over the past 20 years as people have realized the importance of the area. It has grown into one of the city’s coolest, trendiest and funnest districts, with a vibrant atmosphere, and streets lined with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques.

Within the White City lies Rothschild Boulevard, one of the city’s first streets designed as a public space with a central garden with benches, a pathway, and kiosks. From the beginning, it has been a place for the locals to see, and to be seen. The street is perfect for a stroll taking in some of the Bauhaus architecture (and glass skyscrapers constructed next to them recently.) The unique kiosks in the center of the boulevard a perfect place to stop for a drink. For coffee, try the Espresso Bar kiosk, whilst the Juice Bar has great fruit juices, or the ultra-trendy Take Away on Rothschild has coffee and sandwiches. Alternatively you have Japanika, a sushi bar, and MiTachet Laetz a sandwich bar. Rothschild is also home to a number of Tel Aviv’s trendy contemporary art galleries, be sure to stop in if you are on the boulevard.

Kiosk on Rothschild Boulevard

Another notable street in the White City is Sheinkin Street, an iconic street, which to many Israelis is a symbol of Tel Aviv as a whole, for good or for bad, a city which has changed in the past twenty years to an outward looking, global city. Sheinkin is a street of old boutiques, cafes and interesting people. Even the ‘chain’ stores here have adopted a free-thinking design for their stores. Fashion boutiques include Story, Elise, Ellse, and BIG TOM, whilst Bahunot and Daniella Lehavi are good for shoes. Jewellery can be found at X-Ray, whilst gallery Urbanix is interesting. Orna & Ella is Sheinkin’s most prominent and popular cafe.

The White City of Tel Aviv is hard to miss if you are visiting the city, and its worth taking the effort to explore a bit, and take in the beautiful architecture, unique atmosphere, and great food and drink it offers.

Shoes by Shani Bar, one of the design boutiques that can be found in the old "electric garden" neighborhood.

Gan Hahashmal in Tel Aviv has been transformed from the once declining neighborhood that it was into what is now one of Israel’s hippest alternative locales for young fashion and jewelry designers. Situated between Tel Aviv’s White City and quirky Florentin neighborhoods, Gan Hahashmal is a miniature quarter situated  between the streets of Allenby, Yehuda Halevy, Barzilay and Hahashmal. Gan Hahashmal which in English means ‘The Electric Garden’ was named in honor of its distinction as Israel’s first neighborhood with a power plant in the 1920s. Its eclectic architecture fell into decline in the 1970′s but has recently, like much of Tel Aviv been restored and gentrified into a super-cool area popular with fashion designers.

Gan Hahashmal was initially a pocket of architecturally eclectic houses and quaint narrow side streets. It remained so through the 1940s, but was eventually eclipsed by the boom of Bauhaus building farther north and then fell into decline in the 1970s when the power plant closed and the neighborhood became a warren of small hardware stores and crumbling homes. And then, like many gentrified areas, Gan Hahashmal came back in style with the arrival of young Israeli fashion designers seeking cheap rents for their studios and storefronts.

Now there are some two dozen designer boutiques, as well as several cafés and an organic hummus eatery in this formerly elegant, then gritty, now hip district. The first designer arrivals typically opened a combination studio-store, looking for an alternative to their cramped apartment workspaces as well as the more standard storefronts on Dizengoff Boulevard and Sheinkin Street, two neighborhoods that have long been home to Israel’s burgeoning fashion scene.

Now this alternative district has become the “in” location, with established designers opening their own Electric Garden storefronts. Known first as the Collective 6940, a wink at the kibbutz concept as well as their municipal location number, they now call themselves Collective Gan Hahashmal and regularly pool marketing resources as well as information.

The Garden in Gan Hahashmal by Yoav Lerman, on Flickr

Like most young designers in Israel, the Gan Hahashmal pioneers are relatively new to the Israeli fashion scene. In their late 20s and early 30s, most having graduated from local fashion and art schools, they decided to strike out on their own and open their own studios. It’s an unusual move for a young designer, given the risks inherent in making and selling one’s own goods. But Israeli entrepreneurs are bold and this designer version of the Sabra dealmaker is content to stay home and create made-in-Israel clothing for the small, local market.

“There’s a lot of talent in Israel,” said bathing suit designer Gideon Oberson in an interview with the International Herald Tribune. “There are great schools, a lot of imagination and very creative design. But there’s nowhere for young designers to work; we don’t have design companies. So everyone has their own boutique.”

One of the first Gan Hahashmal pioneers was Nait Rosenfeld, who opened her clothing boutique, Nait, in 2002. She was soon joined by fellow fashion designer and friend Idit Barak of Delicatessen and shoe designer Shani Bar.

Selling their decidedly and collectively retro look – pleated A-line skirts, prim cotton blouses and wide-legged trousers, as well as ladylike shoes – their stores reflected their images; charming and quaint for Rosenfeld, antique tones for Bar, whose designs are classic with a modern twist, and more minimalist for Barak. Rosenfeld later reinvented Nait as an atelier, before closing the shop recently to tend to her growing family.

In the meantime, the neighborhood quickly expanded, with clothing, jewelry, handbag and shoe designers setting up shop on the adjacent streets. On HaRakevet, an outer and more visible street than those within the neighborhood, several larger, professionally designed stores opened later and are jokingly called “the new SoHo.”

One of the shops here is Paula Bianco, a jewelry store owned by Smadar-Pola Azriel and named for her late grandmother – a common practice among the young Israeli designer set. She started out designing scarves and deconstructing old sweaters into loops wound around the neck, and uses retro buttons, ribbon, pieces of pottery and singular beads to create bold, whimsical necklaces, rings, earrings and headbands.

Frau Blau, one of the design shops in the Gan Hachashmal neighborhood is known for its whimsical and humorous designs.

Frau Blau, one of the design shops in the Gan Hahashmal neighborhood is known for its whimsical and humorous designs.

The HaRakevet boutiques are far grander in size and look than the neighborhood’s first designer tenants, who tended toward smaller, simpler spaces. “The earlier people were more experimental, more studio,” says Rosenfeld. “It took until the third year for Gan Hahashmal to become what it is today.”

Even today, Gan Hahashmal is authentic in its retro feel, but it is also farther from the city center and the action, and lacks the same kind of traffic. As a result, the customers are either Israelis who live or work nearby, shoppers who come specifically to the neighborhood to see what’s available or growing numbers of tourists who have heard about the area and want to see it for themselves.

At Sharon Brunsher, Sharon and her husband and partner, Tal, sell what she terms “lifestyle objects,” mixing old and new pieces, all in monochromatic tones, from sweaters and pants to blankets, pillows and notebooks. “This is the place for us,” she says, pointing at the still-to-be-restored former tax Bauhaus-style building across the street. “It’s alternative; it’s interesting.”

Nearly all of the Gan Hahashmal stores are owned by designers who are selling their own work, or that of other local designers, whether it’s shoes, bags, jewelry or clothing. Shani Bar is across the street from Eva Teffner, a costume jewelry shop owned by Or Cohen, who specializes in recycled pieces. A couple of doors down is M, the studio where Michal Bassad makes her recycled T-shirts for Shine, another local store; and Banot, a Tel Aviv boutique.

Adjacent to the recently refurbished park that centers the district are Hagar Satat, who works with leather, silver and gold in her jewelry collection; Kisim, a handbag store; and Frau Blau, named for designer Helena Blaunstein’s grandmother and known for its whimsical, humorous designs; as well as several other stores.

“This place fell into my lap,” says Satat, who has doubled her output with the store and distribution of her designs to 30 stores in Israel in addition to 50 in Japan, Canada and the US. With a wide range of ages among her mostly Israeli customers, Satat finds that the store has become her signature, making her less anonymous on one hand, but more beholden to the demands of her customers, who always want something new and different. “I like it because it allows me to be close to my customers, while still in my workshop. It’s my house and Imm the host.”

Article credit goes to Adina Laufer. Find the full article here

Jaffa Flea Market, where one can find everything by RonAlmog, on Flickr

Jaffa is the ancient port out of which modern day Tel Aviv has grown. The Jaffa Flea Market, or,  in Hebrew Shuk Hapishpishim is one of the highlights of the area with vendors selling products of any variety imaginable lining the sidewalks. Weaving your way through an array of treasure, junk, and daily basics, you’ll see everything from Judaica, Persian tiles, jewelery, old jeans, and Indian mildewed clothes. Its an incredible cultural experience, where bargaining and haggling rule the day… fun in itself.

Streets lined with stalls at the Jaffa Flea Market by RonAlmog, on Flickr

The flea market itself is open Sunday to Thursday 10am to 6pm and Friday 10am to 2pm, although the area itself offers much to be taken in and seen. With a bit of local knowledge, a visit to Jaffa Flea Market offers even more than the unique cultural experience you can receive on the surface. Thanks to Samy D., an ex-Jaffa local, we are able to present below some of the sites, sounds, and people that make this place even more unique. What’s below is more than just a tourist guide, it is a glimpse into the life and world of a local, picking on a  few features of life here which make this place special and unique:

Stall at Shuk Hapishpishim by RonAlmog, on Flickr

Margoza. At any given period of time, I have my preferred local café where I stop on my way to the studio for coffee and croissant or a sandwich. It changes each time my way from home to the studio changes. While I was walking from home in Jaffa to the studio in Abulafia Street (the current location), each morning, may it be cold outside or deadly hot, I had my coffee in the small and lovely Margoza bakery (24 Margoza Street). The place is opened by the husband and wife team of Michal and Tzafrir Dahan.

One of the best things to have there is a small wonder named chouquettes We are talking about a small, thin crusted cream puff, garnished with sugar crystals and filled with fresh air from the Alps (not really). 20 chouquettes in a Cellophane bag tied with a ribbon and the world looks much better. Beyond that the different breads are great, the baguettes are authentic and the dried fruit cake is exceptional, a weekend without it is not quite a weekend.

Some of the more unusual products on offer Stall at Shuk Hapishpishim by RonAlmog, on Flickr

Lauri Recanati’s Studio. Almost a year ago I wrote about the mosaic artist and dear friend Lauri Recanati. Her studio in Rabi Hanina Street. is one of the more magical places in the neighborhood. What was a pickles factory (!) over 300 years ago became, under Lauri’s sophisticated and loving hand, the local branch of heaven. A charming studio with romantic yard, mosaic art works and giant bins full of colorful raw materials in any color and texture you can imagine. Visit by appointment, find out the details in her website. 12 Rabi Hanina Street Jaffa

Fresh baked bread from Charcuterie bar. Many know the Charcuterie restaurant, less know about the bar down the same street as the main restaurant, and even less know about the wonders of the bread they bake there. If you ask hard enough they will even sell you a loaf to go. Extra hard crust and soft and airy on the inside. There is only one problem with it; by the time you get back home half of it is gone. 3 Rabi Hanina Street Jaffa.

This article is part of a series of articles by Samy D. about the Jaffa the tourist doesn’t see but which some lucky people get to experience on a daily basis. You can find the original post here or see the amazing ceramics work done by Samy D. in the neighborhood of Neve Tzedek.

A typical Ajami street. By Ori~ via Wikimedia Commons

This part of Jaffa is often glossed over by tourists as it falls further south than the majority of the ‘tourist sites’ in the Old City, Port, and Flea Market areas. With a bit of local knowledge, however, Ajami offers a unique cultural experience, and thanks to Samy D., an ex-Ajami local, we are able to present below some of the sites, sounds, and people that make this special part of Jaffa what it is. This article is more than just a tourist guide, it is a glimpse into the life and world of a local, picking on a  few features of life here which make this place special and unique:

Via Samy D.

Falafel on Saturday morning. Right across the corner from where we used to live there are 2 families making homemade Falafel on Saturday mornings (one on Emmunim Street, the other on Even-Sinna Street you can just follow the smell, it’s delicious). Fresh pita, sliced tomato and falafel balls (more of a patty than the usual ball) full of flavor. The good life, the good life in a pita.

Um- Ali. The neighborhood’s greengrocer, a lovely and tolerant lady. Aside from pears, tomatoes and any other familiar vegetables she has many herbs and roots that I did not know even exist. Some would say that her pricing is correlated to the car you park on the curve in front, some would say that the brown part of the banana is not rotten but ‘Baladi’ (the local version of organic), but there is no one like Um-Ali when it comes to choosing the best watermelon or for the best olives (she sells them by the cashier).

Stuffed Grape leaves. Jaffa for the advanced. Personally, I know those of Noel (from Kedem Street) but she is not the only one. You give her an empty pot in any size and color and two days later you get it back full of grape leaves stuffed with rice rolled perfectly, with an accuracy of a Buddhist monk on Ritalin.

Hamidron Park, the New Park. Credit: Samy D.

Hamidron Park (“the slope park”). It is true that once it was a neighborhood, it is true that in the 80′s the place turned to be a construction waste site, it is also true that the development of the park was accelerated when many Israeli Jews moved to Jaffa – but the bottom line is that it is very very beautiful.

I followed the different stages of the new park’s development. In the beginning, the hills of construction waste were made out of colorful tiles, ceramic electric fuses and even everyday’s household items which cried out the story of the obliterated neighborhood. The time passing, the salty air and giant grinding machines transformed the broken pieces of life to high hills of sand and gravel. From one weekend to another the hills moved and slid to their final position of curvaceous slopes having an abundance of intimate hideaways and vast public spaces. There is even one spot in which Tel Aviv from one side and Bat-Yam on the other are hidden from the eye and all one can see is more than 180 degrees of blue touching blue.

Derech-Hagouf (Jaffa-Chic Wellness Center). In a small turn from Kedem Street (3 Menuha Street) you can find the Jaffa-chic wellness center Derech-Haguf. Once in a few months I go there for an Ayurvedic massage from one of the best – Marian Schwaitzer. After the treatment you can sit on the small terrace facing the sea and drink cold tamarind juice. On my last birthday, a few weeks ago, I put my back muscles to Marian’s practiced hands – so he could dismantle me gently.

The Peres House for Peace in Jaffa by Roi Boshi via Wikimedia Commons

Other places you may like to visit in Ajami which are more on the tourist trail, but still are not experienced by many tourists:

The Peres Center for Peace. An incredible institution named for President Shimon Peres, a Nobel Peace Prize Winner in 1996, this unique center houses what is effectively Peres’s Presidential Library, as well as hosting activities promoting coexistence between Jews and Arabs within Israel and on an international basis.

This article is part of a series of articles by Samy D. about the Jaffa the tourist doesn’t see but which some lucky people get to experience on a daily basis. You can find the original post here or see the amazing ceramics work done by Samy D. in the neighborhood of Neve Tzedek.

Jaffa's narrow passageways are great to explore; RonAlmog, on Flickr

Jaffa (also known as Yafo) is the ancient port city out of which Tel Aviv has now grown. Jaffa has, in recent years, like much of South Tel Aviv, been regenerated with the old narrow streets and courtyards becoming a another highly desirable part of Tel Aviv’s urban tapestry. Jaffa flea market is a well known attraction of the area, with vendors selling a diverse range of interesting and unique products. Meanwhile the narrow passageways and ancient buildings in the Old City of Jaffa are worlds away from modern Tel Aviv.

Jaffa's beautiful harbor; bachmont, on Flickr

The history of Jaffa is a long one. As of the world’s oldest ports, Jaffa is thought to have been the port from which Jonah left in the story of the Whale! The port continued to be important through history, and served as the main entry point to the land of Israel through until the late 19th century when Jews from around the world began to return to Israel. It was through Jaffa that they entered the country and in Jaffa that many initially settled. The huge population increase led to overcrowding, and tense relations developed between the Jewish and Arab residents of the city. The result was that Jews began building outside of Jaffa, firstly neighborhoods such as Neve Tzedek, and later the city of Tel Aviv.

As Tel Aviv developed, Jaffa decayed. By the 1940′s Tel Aviv was so much larger than Jaffa, then dominantly Arab as most Jews had moved out, that it was made into a neighborhood of Tel Aviv to create the official title of the city of Tel Aviv-Yafo. The decay continued until the municipality created a Development Organization to oversee the restoration of Jaffa, which continues today. In late 2011, a new Old Jaffa Visitors Center opened to the public and this features multimedia displays depicting Jaffa through the ages, as well as self-guided walking tours of the city as it is today.

Jaffa is full of interesting faces and places bachmont, on Flickr

Old Jaffa; RonAlmog, on Flickr

There are lots of great things to see in Jaffa. Since its restoration, it has become a popular tourist attraction, with people visiting it as a part of Tel Aviv, and as a city of interest on its own. Jaffa is a real melting pot with Jewish and Arab populations living and breathing the same closely-packed air. It always feels like Jaffa is in a constant state of flux as people rush about on their daily business. The Flea Market is a key site, and the sites, sounds, and smells of the small alleyways and streets which make up this city are lined with artists galleries and studios, as well as boutique and craft shops. Jaffa also has some unique and interesting restaurants.

The Jaffa Harbor is currently being excavated, and is absolutely stunning. The views from here across to modern Tel Aviv, especially at sunset are incredible. Meanwhile, the gardens next to the sea are picturesque.

Tel Aviv, as seen from Jaffa; RonAlmog on, Flickr

Shops in Jaffa are unique. The small, narrow streets are home to small unique boutiques, design shops and other fascinating shops which you could even think are not shops.

Restaurants and cafes in Jaffa offer the full range of food that Tel Aviv has become known for although there is a wide range of more oriental and Middle Eastern styles of food. For instance, one local institution Dr Shakshuka serves this unique tomato and egg based dish originating from Libya to crowds of natives and tourists alike.

What’s near to Jaffa: HaTachana, Tel Aviv’s Old Railway station is a short stroll up the the Mediterranean Coast. Meanwhile the neighbohood of Florentin offers one the chance to see the ‘old’ South Tel Aviv – still to be regenerated with a fascinating array of shops selling all varieties of products.