I KNEW the white-robed gent watching over King David’s tomb was important – because his beard stretched to his waist and he looked VERY old.

I nodded politely to acknowledge his status, gazed for a few seconds at the king’s 3,000- year-old tomb and turned to leave the cool, stone room to venture back into the Jerusalem heat.

Tel Aviv street scene by Flickr user Jerry

As I glanced up, the ancient guardian was looking down studiously… tapping a text message into his iPHONE!

That’s Israel for you, an incredible mix of the old rubbing along with the new.

Tel Aviv is the prime example. Joined to the ancient port of Jaffa is a high-tech, vibrant, 24-hour Mediterranean city just 100 years old.

The Jewish people have had a rollercoaster history – some joy, many horrors – but they’ve always remained a proud nation.

Tel Aviv is certainly a city to be proud of and its short history is remarkable.

It began in 1909, when 66 Jewish families who had lived uneasily in the mainly-Arab port of Jaffa gathered outside on desert sand bought from Bedouin tribesmen.

Their names and parcels of land were written on seashells and drawn by lottery. One hundred years later Tel Aviv and its surrounds is home to three million people.

It has the most wonderful beaches (well, it would have with all that sand) with many hotels stretching along the wide promenade and more springing up all the time.

I stayed at the Crowne Plaza, which is right on the beach and within walking distance of the shopping areas. (More hotels in Tel Aviv)

Tel Aviv is also a city of happy young people. I went to an open-air concert for its 100th anniversary and watched hundreds of teenagers laughing, dancing and making the most of a fabulously warm climate.

Every other building in the old districts of Tel Aviv seems to be a bar or cafe where young, elderly, trendy, rich and poor meet up.

Like any big city, meal prices vary from cheap to very expensive. But the choice is staggering.

Jewish people who arrived years ago from all over Europe brought their old country’s menus which are still a huge influence in restaurants.

The poorer district of Florentine, although gradually being restored, has a crumbling bohemian feel about it, with family businesses selling delicious traditional bread, cheese, spices and sweets from corner shops.

Eventually these will sadly close because there is no one to carry the businesses on.

Another busy area is Carmel Market, which is really one long, narrow alleyway of stalls packed tightly together selling everything under the sun, but mainly fruit and veg.

Just round the corner are streets of trendy designer shops.

My first meal with guide Carmela was a “light Moroccan-style lunch” at the famous Doctor Shakshuka’s in Old Jaffa.

A small nondescript entrance opens into a large room with dozens of old pots and pans hanging from the ceiling and beyond that a delightful courtyard.

Larger-than-life owner Bino Gabso fussed around and within a couple of minutes we were surrounded by plates of salads and breads.

Thinking “that was it”" I tucked in. But a few minutes later bowls of bubbling meats, veg and fish cooked in skillets filled the table, followed by a huge choice of desserts.

With refreshing old-fashioned lemonade it all came to around £12 a head.

So much for a light lunch! I staggered out but from then on knew what to expect when I visited other restaurants, usually tasting meze style-dishes.

These included the more upmarket Carmella Bistro in the centre of Hacarmel Market where chef Daneil Zah talks lovingly about his Mediterranean creations.

The best beachside restaurant is Manta Ray which does wonders with fish, and just across the road the Herbert Samuel serves puddings that melt in your mouth.

Israeli wines, especially the reds, have come a long way in the last few years and waiters will be happy to recommend a local variety.

Jaffa is full of narrow streets and ancient homes but is also embracing the modern world and even the old police station will soon be a boutique hotel.

Many buildings have been taken over by artists and designers, the most famous being Ilana Goor, who has a studio of paintings and unusual sculptures in her 18th Century home. Her striking jewellery and belt designs are selling like hot cakes in America.

On the other side of Tel Aviv is the Eretz Israel Museum which focuses on the history and culture of Israel.

One unforgettable evening was at the Nalaga’at Center in Jaffa to see an astonishing play performed by actors who are both blind and deaf.

In the foyer is a restaurant which is totally blacked out and customers are served by blind waiters.

Getting around Tel Aviv can be expensive by taxi, so get a bus guide or take special minibus cabs that follow a set route for five and a half shekels (around £1.)

Jerusalem is just an hour’s drive away and most Tel Aviv hotels offer guided trips. Carmela admitted she could talk all day about the chequered history of this multicultural city and I was more than happy to listen.

We started at the Mount of Olives overlooking the city where the gold-roofed mosque stands out, and then followed the trail of the Last Supper, Jesus’s betrayal and his agonising trek to his crucifixion.

There is so much to explore in Jerusalem, and a visit to the majestic old city wall and Wailing Wall is a must. Give yourself at least a full day to take it all in.

You can always text King David’s guardian on his iPhone for a few tips on where to go!

Source: News of the World

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